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Insulation Batts Calculator

Free insulation batts calculator: enter your ceiling and wall dimensions, subtract any openings, choose batts or blown-in and your target R-value, and instantly get the number of insulation batts or bags to buy - sized to your stud or joist spacing. Add your price per pack for a material cost estimate. Works in metres and feet.

Areas & insulation

01. Areas to insulate

9.60 m²

Openings (deducted from this area)

02. Insulation

Not sure? Batts vs blown-in compared

Cavity / fill depth: ~90–120 mm deep

Not sure? walls R2.0–R2.7 · ceilings & roofs R3.5–R6.0. R-value guide

03. Cost estimate · optional

Type in what one bag costs you - we multiply it by the 2 bags above. Leave it blank to skip the cost. This covers the insulation only; vapour barrier, fixings and labour are extra.

Calculated requirement
2bags / packages

Net area

9.60 m²

Target R-value

R2.5 (~90–120 mm deep)

Individual batts

~16

Wastage

+10%

Coverage per bag is a typical value - check your product's label and adjust it above.

Rather hire a pro?

Need a handyman for your insulation project?

Got your numbers but want someone to do the work? Find trusted local handymen and tradespeople in Australia on auhandyman.directory.

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Guide & worked example

How this calculator works

Insulation is bought to cover an area to a target R-value. The calculator sizes it from your wall, attic and ceiling areas, takes out the openings, and divides by the area one bag or roll covers:

area      = sum of (length × width) for each wall / ceiling
net area  = area - openings (windows, doors)
bags      = ceil( net area × wastage ÷ coverage per bag )
batts     = ceil( net area × wastage ÷ (bay width × batt length) )

Pick batts / rolls or blown-in and a target R-value, and the default coverage per bag updates to a typical value for that choice - then override it from your own product’s label. Batt and roll bags carry a roughly fixed face area; a blown-in bag has a fixed yield, so a higher R-value (deeper fill) covers less area per bag. Framing spacing sets the batt width, which turns the covered area into a count of individual batts.

How much does insulation cost?

Insulation is sold by the bag, and the price swings widely by product and R-value, which is why this calculator estimates cost from your numbers rather than a national average that drifts out of date. In the Cost estimate section, pick how you are pricing the job:

  • Buy the materials (DIY) - enter your price per bag and the calculator multiplies it by the bag count it already worked out (wastage included), then shows a cost per square foot / metre you can compare against an installed quote.
  • Installed price - enter a single installer’s rate per square foot (or metre). A fitted quote bundles the material and labour into that one rate, so the cost is simply your net area × the rate.
materials = bags to buy × price per bag
installed = net area × installed rate per sq ft/m²

The estimate covers the insulation material only. Vapour barrier, fixings and labour aren’t included, and blown-in usually needs a blower (often a free loan with a bulk purchase) on top. Leave the price blank to skip the cost. Cost figures are indicative - set the price to a real quote for your area.

Worked example

This example follows the unit system you pick in the calculator above.

A 6 × 2.4 m wall with one 1.2 × 1.2 m window, R2.5 batts on 600 mm centres, 10% wastage:

  1. Wall area: 6 × 2.4 = 14.4 m².
  2. Window deducted: 1.2 × 1.2 = 1.44 m², so 12.96 m² net.
  3. With 10% wastage: 12.96 × 1.10 = 14.26 m² to cover.
  4. An R2.5 batt pack covers ~9.6 m²: 14.26 ÷ 9.6 = 1.5 → 2 packs.
  5. As individual 0.58 × 1.16 m batts: 14.26 ÷ 0.67 = 21.3 → 22 batts.

Attic, walls and where insulation goes

Different parts of the house take different R-values, so insulate them as separate areas:

  • Attic / ceiling - the biggest payback and the highest R-values (R-30 to R-60). Open attics are usually blown-in; accessible joist bays take batts. See how much attic insulation do I need.
  • Exterior walls - R-13 to R-15 in a 2×4 wall, R-19 to R-21 in a 2×6 wall. Batts cut to the stud bay are the norm.
  • Floors and crawlspaces - typically R-19 to R-30 between the joists.
  • Garages and sheds - insulate the walls and ceiling you want to condition; the door is the weak point.

Starting from a square-footage figure

Already know your square footage - “about 1,200 sq ft of attic”? Skip the room math and enter a single area equal to that figure, or use:

bags = ceil( square footage × wastage ÷ coverage per bag )

For 1,200 sq ft of R-30 blown-in at ~60 sq ft per bag with 5% wastage: 1,200 × 1.05 ÷ 60 = 21 bags.

R-value, cavity depth and where it goes

The higher the R-value, the deeper the insulation has to sit to reach it. This table is the typical fibreglass depth for each target - check your product, since high-density batts and blown-in fill hit the same R-value in less or more depth:

R-valueRSI (metric)Typical depthCommon use
R-132.33.5 in / 89 mm2×4 exterior wall
R-152.63.5 in / 89 mm2×4 wall, high-density batt
R-193.36.25 in / 159 mm2×6 wall, floors
R-213.75.5 in / 140 mm2×6 wall, high-density
R-305.38.25 in / 210 mmCeilings, cathedral roofs
R-386.710.25 in / 260 mmAttic, warmer climates
R-498.613.75 in / 349 mmAttic, cold climates
R-6010.619 in / 483 mmAttic, coldest climates

RSI is the metric R-value, and in Australia, New Zealand and the UK it’s the figure printed on the pack - so on those regional pages the calculator shows the metric scale (R1.5 to R6.0) directly rather than the imperial one above. Depth is R-value × thermal conductivity, so a dense “high-density” batt reaches the same R-value in less thickness than a standard one - an R2.0 HD wall batt is about 75 mm where a standard R2.0 is ~90 mm - which is why the metric depths show as a range. The coverage figures the calculator seeds are typical bag values; the thickness and coverage on your own pack are always the numbers to trust. For the full breakdown, see the insulation R-value chart.

Batts, blown-in and spray foam

  • Batts and rolls - fibreglass or mineral wool, sized to 16 or 24 inch bays. The calculator’s batt mode counts both the bags and the individual batts.
  • Blown-in (loose fill) - fibreglass or cellulose, poured or blown to fill. Sold to a coverage chart at each settled R-value; read the area for your target and enter it as the coverage. Blown-in vs batt insulation compares the two.
  • Spray foam - sold and quoted by the board foot (1 sq ft at 1 inch thick), and it air-seals as it insulates. It is a different unit from this calculator, so size it from the kit’s stated board-foot coverage.

Tips for buying insulation

  • Measure each wall, attic and ceiling separately and add the openings - large windows and doors quickly add up to a bag you do not need to buy.
  • Match the batt width to your framing: 15 inch batts for 16 inch OC studs, 23 inch for 24 inch OC. A batt that is too wide has to be cut to every bay.
  • Do not compress a thick batt into a shallow cavity to make it fit - you lose R-value. Use a batt rated for the depth you have, or fur the wall out.
  • Blown-in is sold to a coverage chart on the bag at each settled R-value and density - read the area for your target R and enter it as the coverage above.
  • Fill the gaps and avoid compressing around wires and pipes; the rated R-value assumes the batt sits full and even in the bay.

R-values and standards where you are

In Australia, the batts you buy are labelled in metric R-values, commonly R2.0 to R6.0 - ceiling batts are often R5.0 or R6.0 and walls R2.0 to R2.5. This calculator's target R-values use that same metric scale, so just pick the figure printed on your batts.

For the recommended levels by climate zone, see the Australian Government's YourHome guidance, which follows the National Construction Code minimums by climate zone.

Frequently asked questions

01

How much insulation do I need?

Work out the area to insulate - each wall is length × height, each ceiling or attic is length × width - then take off the windows and doors, add a little wastage, and divide by the area one bag or roll covers. A 4 × 2.4 m wall with one window is about 8 m² net; an R-15 batt bag covering ~8 m² with 10% wastage is 2 bags. Enter your areas and product above for the exact figure, or see [how much insulation do I need](/guides/how-much-insulation-do-i-need/) for the full method.

02

How do I calculate insulation by area?

If you already know the area to cover - say 110 m² of attic - divide it by the coverage of one bag or roll and add wastage. For 110 m² of R-30 blown-in at ~5.6 m² per bag with 5% wastage: 110 × 1.05 ÷ 5.6 = 21 bags. The calculator works the area out from your room dimensions, or you can enter a single area equal to that figure directly.

03

How much insulation do I need for my attic?

Attics are usually the biggest and most cost-effective area to insulate, and they take the highest R-values - commonly R-30 to R-60 depending on your climate. Measure the attic floor (length × width), pick the target R-value for your zone, and choose blown-in for an open attic or batts between accessible joists. See [how much attic insulation do I need](/guides/how-much-attic-insulation-do-i-need/) for the climate-zone targets.

04

What is R-value and which one do I need?

R-value rates how well insulation resists heat flow - higher is better. The right target depends on where it goes and your climate: exterior walls are commonly R-13 to R-21, and attics / ceilings R-30 to R-60. Pick your target above and the calculator shows the typical cavity depth it needs. The same rating is given as the metric R-value (RSI = R ÷ 5.678) in Australia, New Zealand and the UK - what their batts and packs are labelled in - so on those regional pages the calculator shows that metric scale (R1.5 to R6.0) directly. The [insulation R-value chart](/guides/insulation-r-value-chart/) lists them all.

05

Should I use batts, blown-in or spray foam?

Batts and rolls (fibreglass or mineral wool) suit open stud and joist bays you can reach; blown-in loose fill (fibreglass or cellulose) suits attics and finished cavities where it is poured or blown to fill; spray foam is installed by the board foot and also air-seals. This calculator covers batts / rolls and blown-in - for spray foam, use the board-foot coverage on the kit. See [blown-in vs batt insulation](/guides/blown-in-vs-batt-insulation/) to choose.

06

How much insulation do I need for a shed or garage?

Treat each wall and the ceiling as a separate area and add them up. A 3.6 × 7.2 m shed with 2.4 m walls has about 52 m² of wall plus a 26 m² ceiling - roughly 78 m² before deducting the door and any windows. At R-13 batts covering ~10 m² per bag with 10% wastage that is about 9 bags. Enter each area above for the exact count.

07

How do I allow for windows and doors?

Add each opening under its area and the calculator subtracts it before working out the bags - useful when a wall has large windows you would otherwise insulate to waste. Use "+ Add opening" on that area and enter the opening width, height and quantity. For a wall with one small window you can skip this and let the wastage allowance cover it.

08

How much insulation wastage should I allow?

Allow about 10% for batts and rolls in a normal room, 15% where there are lots of openings, narrow bays or services to cut around, and around 5% for blown-in since it is poured to fill and has no offcuts. It is cheaper to have a part-bag left over than to stop the job one batt short.

09

How much does insulation cost?

It depends on the product and the R-value - thin R-13 batts are the cheapest per bag, while high-R blown-in and mineral wool cost more, and the area drives the rest. Because pricing varies so much by material and region, this calculator estimates cost from your own numbers rather than a baked-in average. In the cost section, enter your price per bag and it multiplies by the bag count it already worked out, plus a cost per square metre, or switch to an installed rate per square metre to price an installer. The estimate covers the insulation material only - vapour barrier, fixings and labour are extra.

10

Is it cheaper to insulate myself or hire an installer?

Batts and rolls in open, accessible walls or joists are an easy DIY job, so doing it yourself is usually cheaper - the labour is the main saving. Blown-in needs a blower (often a free loan with a bulk bag purchase) and is messier, so an attic blown-in job is a closer call. Use the cost section to compare: enter your price per bag under "Buy the materials" for the DIY material total and a cost per square metre, then switch to "Installed price" and enter an installer's rate to see the gap.

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