How to Measure a Room for Flooring
Measuring up is the part most people get wrong - and it is the part that decides whether you buy too little (a second batch that does not match) or too much. Here is how to do it properly.
By the Calculate My Reno Team / Published
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Open the Flooring Calculator
Measuring a room for flooring is simple arithmetic, but two things trip people up: irregular shapes, and forgetting the wastage allowance. Get both right and you will order the correct amount once - which matters, because a second batch ordered later may not match the colour of the first.
What you need
A tape measure (a laser measure is faster for big rooms), a pen and paper, and a calculator. Work in whichever units your flooring is sold in - square feet or square metres - but it is fine to measure in feet/inches or metres; the flooring calculator converts for you.
Step 1: Measure a simple rectangular room
- Measure the length of the room at floor level, along the skirting.
- Measure the width the same way.
- Multiply the two for the floor area.
A 5 m × 4 m room is 20 m²; a 16 ft × 13 ft room is 208 sq ft. Measure at floor level, not across furniture, and round measurements up to the nearest few centimetres or inches.
Step 2: Handle L-shaped and irregular rooms
Do not try to measure an odd shape in one go. Instead:
- Split the floor into rectangles - draw the room and divide it into two or three boxes.
- Measure and calculate each rectangle separately.
- Add the areas together.
For a room with a chimney breast or a kitchen island the floor does not cover, measure those out as their own rectangle and subtract them.
Step 3: Include doorways and thresholds
Flooring runs into doorways and stops under the threshold strip, so the floor continues past the wall line. Measure to the centre of each doorway rather than to the door frame. It is a small amount, but it is real flooring you need to buy.
Step 4: Add the wastage allowance
Never order the bare floor area. You always lose some flooring to:
- the offcut at the end of each row (which often becomes the start of the next row, but not always),
- boards or tiles that crack during cutting, and
- a spare or two kept back for future repairs.
| Layout | Add | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Straight, square room | 5% | Cuts only at two walls |
| Diagonal or long room | 10% | More angled and end cuts |
| Herringbone / chevron | 15% | A cut at almost every board |
Step 5: Convert area into boxes
Flooring is sold by the box, not the square metre, so the last step is dividing your total area (plus wastage) by the coverage printed on the box. That is fiddly to do by hand - the flooring calculator does it for you, including the wastage allowance, and tells you how many boxes to buy.
A worked example
A 5 m × 4 m living room, straight layout, laminate boxes that each cover 2 m²:
- Area: 5 × 4 = 20 m².
- Add 5% wastage: 20 × 1.05 = 21 m².
- Boxes: 21 ÷ 2 = 10.5, rounded up to 11 boxes.
The one rule that saves projects
Buy it all at once, from the same batch, and check the batch (or “dye lot”) number matches on every box. Flooring shade varies between production runs, so a few boxes bought later to make up a shortfall can be visibly different across the floor. Measuring carefully up front is how you avoid that.
Frequently asked questions
Do I measure the room or the floor area?
You measure the floor area - the surface the flooring will actually cover. For a simple rectangular room that is length × width. Let the flooring run into doorways and under the threshold, so measure to the centre of each doorway, not just to the wall line.
How much extra flooring should I add for waste?
Add 5% for a straight layout in a square room, 10% for a diagonal layout or a long/irregular room, and 15% for herringbone or rooms with lots of cuts around doorways and fixtures. The waste covers the offcut at the end of each row, breakages, and a spare or two for future repairs.