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Brick & Block Calculator

Enter your wall sizes, take off the doors and windows, pick your brick or block size and mortar joint, and get the number of bricks or blocks to buy - plus the mortar mix and sand. Handles single or double wythe walls. Works in feet/inches or metres/millimetres.

Brick & Block

01. Walls

Gross wall area: 208 sq ft

02. Unit & mortar

Wythes (leaves)

Net area: 192 sq ft · 6.86 /sq ft · mortar 11.2 cu ft

Masonry to order
1384bricks / blocks

Net wall area

192 sq ft

Units per area

6.86 /sq ft

Mortar volume

11.2 cu ft

  • Mortar mix bags23
  • Sand (if site-mixing)11.2 cu ft
  • Openings deducted16 sq ft

Buy ready-mixed mortar by the bag, or site-mix using about that much sand plus masonry cement to suit.

Guide & worked example

How this calculator works

You don’t have to do any of this maths yourself - the calculator handles every step. This is just what is going on behind the scenes, in case you like to know.

A brick or block wall is measured like any wall: first work out the gross wall area (each wall’s length times its height), then take off the doors and windows to leave the net area - the part you actually cover in brick. The rest is turning that net area into a number of bricks, plus the mortar and the sand:

units per area = 1 ÷ ((unitL + joint) × (unitH + joint))   (one wythe)
gross area     = sum of (wall length × wall height)
net area       = gross − (door & window areas)
units          = ceil( net area × units/area × wythes × wastage )
mortar volume  = net units × unit depth × (cell − unit face) × wastage   (full-bed)
sand (mixing)  ≈ mortar volume      mortar mix bags = ceil( mortar volume ÷ bag yield )

Every brick takes up its own size plus one mortar joint on two sides - a joint on top (the bed joint) and a joint to one side (the head joint). So the space one brick really fills is (brick length + joint) × (brick height + joint), and the number of bricks per square metre (or per square foot) is one divided by that space. A double-wythe wall - two layers of brick thick, also called two leaves or two skins - lays two bricks for every spot on the wall, so it needs twice the bricks and twice the mortar. The mortar fills the gaps around every brick; this is a generous (full-bed) estimate, so hollow blocks - which are only buttered with mortar around the edges - use a little less. If you mix your own mortar on site, the sand you need is about the same as the finished mortar volume, so the sand figure follows the mortar; if you buy ready-mixed bags instead, the calculator tells you how many bags to get.

Worked example

This example follows the unit system you pick in the calculator above.

A 26 ft × 8 ft single-wythe (one brick thick) wall in modular brick, minus one 4 ft × 4 ft window, 5% waste:

  1. Gross wall area: 26 × 8 = 208 sq ft.
  2. Deduct the window: 4 × 4 = 16 sq ft, so net = 192 sq ft.
  3. Units per sq ft: 144 ÷ (8 × 2.625) = 6.86 bricks/sq ft (nominal 8 × 2⅔ in cell with a 3/8 in joint).
  4. Add 5% waste: ceil(192 × 6.86 × 1.05) = 1,383 bricks.
  5. Mortar: about 11 cu ft - so roughly 23 bags of mortar mix (80 lb), or about 11 cu ft of sand if you mix your own.

Bricks and blocks per area, by unit size

The unit size and the joint set the per-area count - that is what turns a wall area into a number to buy. These are the common units laid to a 10 mm (3/8 in) joint:

UnitActual face sizePer m²Per sq ft
US modular brick7-5/8 × 2-1/4 in~746.86
UK metric brick215 × 65 mm~605.5
AU standard brick230 × 76 mm~484.5
Concrete block (8 × 8 × 16 in CMU)15-5/8 × 7-5/8 in~121.13
Concrete block (390 × 190 mm)390 × 190 mm12.51.16

A double-skin wall needs twice these figures. The mortar grows with the joint and the unit depth, so a thick block bed uses more mortar per unit than a thin brick joint even though the block count is far lower.

Curved walls and round fire pits

Brickwork on a curve is counted the same way as a straight wall - you just measure the length along the curve itself (its running, or developed, length) instead of in a straight line. Set a wall’s shape to Curved and enter the diameter (the width measured across the middle of the wall) and the sweep angle (how far around the circle the wall goes - a quarter turn is 90°, a half is 180°); the run is π × diameter × angle ÷ 360. A round fire pit or fireplace is a full circle, so switch the shape to Round and the run becomes the whole circumference, π × diameter. The brick count, the mortar and any opening you deduct all follow from that area, exactly as for a straight wall.

Because rectangular bricks wedge on a curve - the joints open on the outside and you cut more on a tight radius - add a little more waste the tighter the curve. The count here is the structural ring only; line the inside of a fire pit with fire brick set in refractory mortar. For the ring-by-ring method and a table by pit diameter, see how many bricks for a fire pit.

Tips for measuring and ordering brick

  • Measure each wall length times height, then take off the doors and windows so you are not paying to lay brick over them. The calculator works out each wall on its own, so a big opening on one wall never eats into another.
  • Pick the preset that matches your brick or block, or type the unit’s actual face and depth and the joint - the per-area count and the mortar both come off those numbers.
  • Set single or double wythe (one or two layers of brick thick) to match your wall. A brick veneer - a single skin of brick in front of a timber or block wall - is single; a solid two-layer wall is double. A cavity wall - two walls with a gap between them - is usually the outer brick layer plus a separate run of the block calculator for the inner layer.
  • Buy the mortar whichever way the result shows it: ready-mixed bags by the count, or that volume of sand plus masonry cement if you are mixing your own. Round the mortar up - it is cheap compared with running out partway up the wall.
  • Order a little long and keep the batch / lot number; clay and concrete units can vary slightly in shade between runs.
  • For the footing or slab the wall sits on, the concrete calculator works out the concrete, the concrete mix calculator gives the cement, sand and gravel if you are mixing it, and the paver calculator handles a paved area in the same masonry family.
  • For the full method and worked figures, see how many bricks do I need, the per-area figures in how many bricks per square foot, the standard brick sizes, and the mortar in how much mortar do I need. Laying brick flat for a patio or building a fire pit? Those have their own guides.

Standard brick and block sizes where you are

In the United States, the brick most jobs use is the modular brick, actually 7-5/8 × 2-1/4 × 3-5/8 in (a nominal 8 × 2-2/3 × 4 in once the joint is counted), and the concrete equivalent is a concrete block, or CMU, with a nominal 8 × 8 × 16 in (actual 7-5/8 × 7-5/8 × 15-5/8 in) the workhorse size. Both are laid to a 3/8 in (about 10 mm) joint, which is what turns the unit size into the per-area count. Enter your unit's actual face and depth, plus the joint, in the calculator above - or pick the matching preset - so the per-area count and the mortar come out right for the unit you are actually buying.

For the recognised specification and laying detail, see ASTM C216 (facing brick), C90 (loadbearing concrete block) and C270 (mortar), per Brick Industry Association Technical Note 10.

Frequently asked questions

01

How many bricks do I need?

Add up each wall as length times height for the gross area, subtract the doors and windows to get the net area, then multiply by the bricks per square foot. A unit covers its own face plus one mortar joint on each side, so the bricks per square foot is 144 divided by ((brick length + joint) × (brick height + joint)) in inches. A US modular brick at a 3/8 in joint works out to about 6.86 per square foot. The calculator does every step, scales for single or double wythe, adds your waste allowance and rounds up.

02

How many bricks are in a square foot?

A US modular brick (nominal 8 × 2-2/3 in, actual 7-5/8 × 2-1/4 in) laid with a 3/8 in joint is about 6.86 bricks per square foot of single-wythe wall - the standard estimating figure. Multiply your net wall area in square feet by 6.86, then add waste. The calculator works it out for your exact brick and joint and rounds up to whole bricks.

03

How many concrete blocks do I need?

Standard 8 × 8 × 16 in concrete block (CMU) laid with a 3/8 in joint covers a nominal 8 × 16 in face, so you need about 112.5 blocks per 100 square feet of wall - roughly 1.125 blocks per square foot. Pick the block preset or enter the block size in the calculator and it gives the exact count with waste.

04

How much mortar do I need for brick or block?

Mortar fills the joints around every unit through the bed of the wall, so it scales with the unit count and the joint thickness. As a rule of thumb a single wythe of standard brick needs roughly 11 cubic feet of mortar per 1,000 bricks, or about 4 cubic feet (3 to 4 bags of mortar mix) per 100 concrete blocks. The calculator estimates the mortar volume from your unit size, joint and wall area, then gives the bags of mortar mix to buy and the sand volume if you are mixing your own.

05

What is the difference between a single and double wythe wall?

A wythe (or skin/leaf) is one unit thickness of masonry. A single-wythe wall is one brick thick - common for a brick veneer over a framed or block backup. A double-wythe wall is two leaves thick, so it needs twice the bricks and twice the mortar for the same wall face. Set single or double in the calculator and it scales the count and the mortar; a cavity wall is usually counted as the outer brick leaf plus a separate block inner leaf.

06

Do I subtract doors and windows from a brick wall?

Yes - subtract the area of each door and window from the gross wall area, because you are not laying brick over them. The calculator deducts every opening you add and works out each wall on its own, so a big opening on one wall never eats into another. For very small openings some estimators leave them in as a built-in allowance, but for a tight estimate take them all off and let the waste percentage cover the cutting around them.

07

How much extra brick should I order for waste?

Allow about 5% for a clean rectangular wall and 10% where there are lots of corners, openings and cuts - more for arches, curves or a lot of half-bricks. Bricks also vary slightly between batches, so it is worth ordering a little long and keeping the batch number. The calculator adds your chosen waste allowance before rounding up to whole units.

08

How do I calculate bricks for a curved wall or a round fire pit?

A curve is counted like a straight wall, but you use the developed (running) length of the curve instead of a straight length: run = π × diameter × sweep angle ÷ 360. In the calculator, set the wall shape to Curved and enter the diameter (measured at the middle of the wall) and the angle. A round fire pit or fireplace is a full circle, so use the Round shape and the run is the whole circumference, π × diameter. Add a little extra waste for a tight radius, because rectangular bricks wedge on a curve, and line a fire pit with fire brick.

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