Siding Cost: Vinyl, Fiber Cement and James Hardie
Siding is priced by the square - 100 square feet of wall - and the material you pick moves the total more than the size of your house does. This guide breaks the price into its parts so you can price your own job, rather than trusting a national average that was never about your walls.
By the Calculate My Reno Team / Published
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Siding is sold and quoted by the square - 100 square feet of wall - and almost every online estimate hides that behind a single national average. The average is not about your house. Build the number instead: get your net wall area, turn it into squares, and price each layer.
The price is four lines, not one
siding cost = squares × material rate
+ trim (J-channel, corners, starter)
+ labor
+ tear-off and repairs (if any)
Run your walls through the siding calculator to get the first line - it takes the gable ends, subtracts the doors and windows, and gives you the net area, the squares, and the trim lengths. Then price each line locally. Rates move by market, by season and by how busy the crews are, so a figure you look up is a starting point, not a quote.
What actually moves the total
Three things shift a siding budget more than the size of the house does:
- The material. This is the single biggest lever, and the spread is wide - see the table below.
- The openings and the detail. A crew is paid for hours, not for area. Windows, corners, dormers and a steep gable all mean more cutting, more trim and more scaffold, on a wall that measures the same square footage as a plain one. A small fussy house can cost more per square foot than a big plain one.
- Tear-off. Stripping old siding, and whatever the crew finds behind it, is the line most likely to move after the quote. Rotten sheathing is the classic surprise.
The materials, cheapest to dearest
| Material | Relative cost | Why it sits there |
|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | Lowest | Light, cuts with snips, one person can hang it. The most common siding in America, largely on price. |
| Engineered wood | Low-middle | Wood look, lighter and cheaper to hang than fiber cement. |
| Fiber cement | High | Heavy, needs cutting gear and usually two people - the labor costs more, not just the board. |
| James Hardie | Highest | A brand of fiber cement, not a different material. You are paying for the product line, finishes and warranty. |
Two things worth being clear about, because most cost pages blur them:
James Hardie is fiber cement. It is a brand within the category, so “fiber cement vs Hardie” is not a materials question - it is a product question. Quote Hardie against another fiber cement board on the same wall and the gap narrows.
Fiber cement’s premium is mostly labor. The board costs more, but the bigger difference is that it is heavy, it needs a shear or a scoring tool, and it is a two-person lift. That is why the installed gap is wider than the material gap.
Cost per square foot, and why it misleads
Per-square-foot is how siding gets advertised and it is the least reliable number in the job, because it silently bundles the material, the trim, the labor and the difficulty of the wall into one figure. Two houses on the same street can be a dollar apart per square foot on the same product.
Use it as a sanity check on a quote, never as the basis for a budget. The reliable path is the other direction: price your own material and trim, add a local labor rate, and divide by your area at the end. The per-foot number that falls out is about your house.
Worked example
A two-story house with 2,400 sq ft of gross wall, 340 sq ft of windows and doors:
- Net area: 2,400 - 340 = 2,060 sq ft.
- Squares: 2,060 ÷ 100 = 20.6 squares. Add wastage - call it 10% for a plain wall, more if there are a lot of cuts - so ~23 squares to buy.
- Material: 23 × your local rate per square.
- Trim: the calculator gives the J-channel and corner-post lengths - price these separately, because a quote that looks cheap on panels often makes it back here.
- Labor: commonly around half the installed price, and it goes up with the gables and the window count, not the area.
- Tear-off: only if the old siding is coming off, and leave room for what is behind it.
Change nothing but the material in step 3 and the total moves more than any other single edit you can make - which is the whole argument for pricing the material first.
DIY versus installed
Vinyl is the one mainstream siding a determined homeowner genuinely does hang, and since labor is roughly half of an installed price, that is a large saving. Fiber cement is a harder proposition: it is heavy, cutting it makes silica dust that needs proper protection, and it is unforgiving to hang badly on a wall you have to look at for thirty years.
The materials cost the same either way. The question is whether you have the time, the gear and a second pair of hands - and, for two stories, whether you are comfortable working off staging.
Where siding estimates go wrong
- Quoting off gross wall area. The openings come off. On a house with a lot of glass that is a real number.
- Forgetting the trim. J-channel, corners and starter strip are a separate purchase and a separate line on a quote.
- Reading a national average as a quote. It is an average of markets, houses and materials that are not yours.
- Assuming Hardie is a different material from fiber cement. It is fiber cement. Compare it against other boards in its own category.
Start with the siding calculator for the squares and the trim, then read vinyl vs fiber cement siding if you have not settled the material - because that is the decision the price is actually waiting on.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to side a house?
It depends on two things far more than on the size of the house: the material, and how much of the wall is openings and detail. Get your net wall area first, convert it to squares (100 sq ft each), then multiply by a local installed rate for the material you want. Vinyl sits at the bottom of the range, engineered wood in the middle, and fiber cement and James Hardie at the top - a Hardie job can run several times a vinyl one over the same walls.
How much does vinyl siding cost per square foot?
Vinyl is the cheapest of the mainstream materials per square foot installed, which is most of why it is the most common siding in America. The rate you are quoted moves with the panel grade (thickness and whether it is insulated), how many corners and windows the crew has to trim around, and whether the old siding has to come off first. Price the panel and the trim separately - the trim is where cheap quotes hide.
Is fiber cement worth the extra over vinyl?
It costs more to buy and more to hang - it is heavy, it needs cutting gear, and it is usually a two-person lift - but it does not melt, it holds paint, and it lasts longer. The honest way to compare is over the life of the wall rather than at the checkout: see [vinyl vs fiber cement siding](/guides/vinyl-vs-fiber-cement-siding/) for the trade-offs side by side.
Why is James Hardie more expensive than generic fiber cement?
James Hardie is a brand of fiber cement, not a different material, so you are paying for the product line, the finish options and the warranty rather than for a different physics. Quote it against another fiber cement board on the same wall and the gap is usually smaller than it looks - but it is a real gap, and it is bigger on the installed price than on the boards alone.
What percentage of a siding job is labor?
Roughly half of an installed price is commonly labor, and it rises with the difficulty of the wall rather than its size. Two stories, steep gables, a lot of windows, or tearing off old siding all add hours without adding much area. That is why a small fussy house can cost more per square foot than a big plain one.